Kautz Glacier Route

Route Description

General Information

This picture was taken on the road up to Paradise. Paul, Paul and Mark start off at Paradise. Paul and Paul have three attempts between them, but this is the first time either one has seen the mountain from the Paradise parking lot.

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Expedition Members

Paul - Paul - Mark

Route

Kautz Glacier route.
The trip lasted 5 days.

We drop down to the Nisqually at Glacier Vista.

The Nisqually glacier was the driest we have seen it in years for the end of July.

Permits

A new climbing permit is required to camp above 10,000ft on Mt Rainier. Permits can be
purchased from the Paradise ranger station for $30.00.

After a short walk across the Nisqually Glacier, we weaved our way off the ice onto the rocks of the Fan.

Maps
Green Trails
Mt Rainier East - #270
Mt Rainier West - #269
USGS
Mount Rainier East
Mount Rainier West

Camp 1 was the rocky ramp at the top of the Fan. There was running water at this camp. Camp1 Video
This camp looks out over the Nisqually Glacier and has a good view of the rest of the route to 12,000ft.

Phone Numbers

Climbing Rangers Office
( 360 ) 569-2211
ext. 2314 - for Camp Muir
ext. 2356 -for Camp Schurman

We pass the big rock at 9000ft to see a camp site with a great rock wind break.
9000ft Descent Video

We set up camp at 9,200ft just about the second big rock at that level. There was running water by this camp.

Reference Books

Cascade Alpine Guide
Columbia River to Stevens Pass
By Fred Beckey
Mt Rainier Climbing Guide
by Stanely Maps

We pass a RMI party camped at 9,300ft at the beginning of day three.

The turtle snow field was easy to ascend with large sun cups as steps.
Turtle Snow Field Video

Mark poses in front of the tent at the10,800 ft Camp3.

In this picture of the Kautz ice fall you can see climbers at the top of the chute.

Paul jugs up the fixed line Mark put in on the Kautz Ice chute.

Kautz Ice Chute Video

Paul and Paul pass a large ice block at 12,000 ft.

Paul and Paul pass through the large crevasses at the base of the Nisqually ice fall at 12,500ft.

Taking a much needed rest, Paul sits down on the rim of Mt Rainier's 14,100 ft
East crater.

Even though we reach the East crater rim in a total white out, Paul still has a smile on his face.
Crater Rim Video

Mark poses with the steam warped snow of the East crater in the background.

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Links

Mt Rainier National Park Home Page
Mt Rainier Volcano Observatory