Monkey Face

Smith Rock, Oregon

From the west

The first pitch leads
to a pair of bolts on the
ramp below the tower.
Pitch two, goes up the
ramp to a chock stone,
around the corner, and
up to "Bohn Street" the
start of the 3rd pitch.

Team Members

Ken - Nancy - Mark

Location

Monkey Face is located in
Smith Rock State Park, two
miles east of the town
of Terrebonne, in central
Oregon.

From the southwest

At the start of pitch 3,
there are two sets of
anchor bolts plus a single
bolt to anchor into while
you wait your turn at the
aid pitch.
(A.K.A. The Bolt Ladder)

Route

The Pioneer Route
Five pitches:

1. Fourth class
2. 5.5 - gear to 2"
3. Aid - A1
4. 5.7 - 5.8-Bolts
5. Fourth class

Aid Pitch

This is Ken at the
start of the bolt ladder.
Two sets of etriers
come in handy for
this pitch. If you are
in a hurry the seconds
can jumar up, on a
fixed line.

Rock Gear

- Etriers-two sets
- Ten quick draws
- Two 55m or longer ropes
- Gear to 2''
- Several slings
- Jumars

Monkey's mouth

Nancy on the belay
in the mouth of
the monkey. There
are several bomber
anchors spread
out in the cave.

Map

Smith Rock Map

Rappel anchors

Here we are standing
at the rappel anchors.
The fourth pitch, comes
out of the cave, and
is only 20 feet long,
but, named "Panic Point"
because it requires
the climber to step out
of the cave and start
climbing with 180 feet
of air below.

Reference Books

A Climbers Guide to Smith Rocks
by Allen Watts

180 ft Rappel

This is Ken on the
180 ft rappel. The
crack to the lower
left is Bohn Street.
The face on the right
side of Ken is
Just Do It -5.14c